GENERAL PRINCIPLES FOR QUALITY JEWELRY

Telling the difference in quality between two similar pieces of jewelry isn't always easy. Looking beautiful is rarely an indication of quality. Determining whether a piece of jewelry is structurally sound -- capable of sustaining the rigors of everyday wear -- while remaining beautiful requires a deeper look.

In general, a well-made piece of jewelry will have these characteristics:

• Design that is beautiful and well-balanced while having structural integrity and durability.

• Quality workmanship including secure settings and smooth polishing and finishing.

• Gemstones that are symmetrically, straight and level, and well spaced.

• Gold that is free from pitting, porosity, and brittleness. Overcasting (casting metal over and over without adding newly refined gold and alloys) will cause these problems.

• Ample height and backing in a gemstone setting without being excessive.